Hoi An, Central Vietnam - Lanterns and Clothes!

After my karaoke night, I made it to the airport two hours before my flight's scheduled departure. To my consternation, my flight had been delayed 10 hours. To make matters worst, Wells Fargo decided to freeze my atm card, so I had very little money and certainly not enought to leave the airport (so annoying since I called them before i left the USA and told them I would be using the card allover asia....). Luckily, the airline Gay gave me two meal vouchers, so I didn't starve to death... I was just extremely bored, with only my Vietnam lonely planet guidebook to keep me company... So i get on the plane and I am seated next to two German girls, one with a huge booger hanging out of her nose... and I kept staring at it. She said she had a cold then screamed and yelled at the flight crew to bring her water and let her use the toilet and disgustedly told me " Why don't these people speak English so we can communicate?" all of this in a really crappy broken English with thick German accent. Go figure!

Cu Chi Tunnels, Cao Dao Temple, Karaoke & BOOM BOOM

Cao Dao is a religion that incorporates all religions and philosophies from Eastern to Western. IT was founded in Vietnam in the 1920s. There are around 2 million followers world wide. I visited the mother church about 3 hours from Saigon. The temple is super ornate and incorporates western symbolism (such as the all seeing eye) and asian symbolism such as the lotus and dragons. For mass, the followers and priests dress in ornate outfits. The lay followers where white, the men a black cap. The priests dress in either red (for christianity), yellow (for buddhism) and blue (for philosophy) robes with high hats that have the all seeing eye embroidered on them. They have a procession, men on one side, women on the other. Mass consists of chanting, singing and several different bowing spats. It was fascinating to watch, but I felt a little voyeuristic.

Lunch was at a roadside restaurant. I met two great girls from Holland that are vacationing for 7 weeks. We dined together. I ordered deep fried fermented minced pork on a stick. Totally delicious! I know it sounds weird, but everything can't be like in the west, right?

I hate war. I just do. I hate seeing the sights, but as an American, I feel that I need to see and emotionally deal with the different aspects of the "American War" as it is known in Vietnam. Cu Chi Tunnels of the Viet Cong were the afternoon's tour. It made me horribly sad that thousands of people had to live underground to avoid being killed. The system of tunnels is elaborate and really impressive. They also had a museum showing all the different death traps they made for the American G.I.s. Everything was made out of recycled metal from the american bombs. It was fascinationg.

The 25% macho that I am lead me to the shooting range. I shot an AK 47. It was crazy. Talk about a good kick, and it was even bolted down. The sound was super loud. It gave me a new appreciation for all soldiers, especially those from both sides of the American War. I can't imagine lugging equipment like that through the hot, humid jungle. My fat self was drenched in sweat just from walking.

Hello Saigon, town of BOOM BOOM

Very full day. I will see if I can remember everything! I took the full day city tour from the Vinh Cafe. Super cheap at $9 for the whole day.

1. We visited Saigon's oldest buddhist temple and pagoda. It was very cool. Painted yellow. Inside was full of a plethora of buddhas and ancestor tablets. In the main room, several monks and lay people were chanting before the alter. I got excellent video of it! The guide explained about the different stages of Bhuddist hell. I think I will stick with the western world's versions. Hehe. There was beautiful inlaid blue and white porcelain used as decoration.
2. our 2nd stop was a temple in China Town dedicated to the sea goddess. The roofline was decorated with amazing stone carvings of people... very ornate and I loved it. I must say that as I travel through Asia, I understand many elements of my own art... the details, the intricacy the need to have 20 patterns going at one time... it is very exciting!... but back to the temple... gigantic vases, beautiful huge gong... and my favorite, a wall of pink papers containing prayers fluttering in the wind.
3. 3rd stop was the chinese wholesale market. Mostly clothes, shoes and food for the local economy. The highlight was the clock tour and architecture of the building itself. Just delightful!
4. 4th stop, and I am sure the highlight for the commission receiving tour guide, was a workshop for handicapable people. I got to see how the famous Vietnamese egg shell lacquer is made, wood and stone carving, and mother of pearl inlay. The prices were absolutely atrocious, so I didn't buy anything.
5. After lunch, we went to the former American Embassy, which now houses the War Crimes Museum. I must say that I feel shame for the misery that we have inflicted on the people of South East Asia. The effects of agent orange and other chemical war fare weapons is horrific and still causing birth defects today. Everywhere you go, there are people missing limbs. I know that this particular Museum only shows one side of the conflict, but paired with what I have read and heard from the American side, I believe the truth is some where in the middle. War is a barbaric thing, period.
6. The former South Vietnam Presidential Palace, or the "Reunification Palace" was the next stop. A masterpiece of mid-century architecture, I was in love at first sight! The Vietnamese government has preserved it completely as it was built. The state rooms are exquisite and I want the "gambling room" as my living room... There is a fantastic round couch! All of the furniture is outstanding. FOr anyone that loves mid century design, this is a dream!
7. Last stop was the French Cathedral of Notre Dame. A copy of the original in Paris. Everything you would want from a church. Across the street, was the French Colonial central post office. Talk about gorgeous! And crowned with a giant portrait of Ho Chi Minh, or Uncle HO as the Vietnamese call it.

Overall, a wonderful day. The first official tour I have taken this trip, and worth it. In the evening, I ate grilled meat and rice from a street vendor and hung out with some super cool painters that I am commissioning a number of pieces from.

Of course, the walk home was similar to the previous night BOOM BOOM BOOM. UGH!

From the MEKONG Delta to SAIGON

I booked a 6 hour bus ticket for $8 from Chau Doc to Saigon. No one but the government calls it Ho Chi Minh City. IT was on a small air conditioned mini bus, which was not packed, so the ride was decent. We made a few stops for food and bathrooms... I must say I am impressed with the Vietnames bus station food! I had delicious steamed buns with a minced pork and vegetable inside for 60 cents ( 10,000 dong). YEs, the Vietnamese currency is called Dong and yes, I snicker about it. Sorry.

The mini bus broke down on the edge of Saigon in the middle of nasty traffic. We pushed the vehicle to the side of the road then I got a Xe Mo (scooter taxi) to the backpacker area. I was lucky that I was travelling light. Just my small back pack. After an hour on the back of the scooter, and a really sore butt, I made it to the Tourist Ghetto. I found a really nice hotel... probably the nicest so far... right in the middle of the action .. antique furniture, private bathroom, mini fridge and satelite tv - for 16$. A few doors down is a delicious French Bakery that is my new best friend.

It was around 7pm, so I found a street stall for a delicious meal of pho. Steamed noodles with beef... just delicious! Every taste fresh and distinct, none too overwhelming. Daddy is in heaven!

After dinner, I went to the internet cafe to catch up on emails etc. The connection sucked and the kid was crabby! So with that done, I headed back to my hotel. Hookers on scooters! Yes, that is what assaulted me when i stepped out of the internet cafe... "BOOM BOOM?" shouts the whore... her pimp is driving her around. I ignored it and kept walking. Then another whore pulled up and ran for me... literally... "Massage? Happy Boom Boom?" I mean seriously. I told her no and she looked dejected and started screaming something in vietnamese at her pimp who was still on the motor bike. The next one made a grab for my crotch... um no, thank the lord for self defense classes! Then I was safe in my hotel. All that in 5 minutes!

Mekong Delta!!!!

The day before, I booked two tours. The first started at 8am. I had a nice boat and driver all to myself. We went up and down the river for 3 hours. It was very relaxing and sublime.

The driver spoke no English, so we just smiled and nodded a lot. First, he took me to a wholesale fruit market that is all done on boats in the middle of the river. It was fun to watch the bargaining and throwing of goods back and forth.

Then, we visited a floating village. IT came complete with floating gas stations, super markets, houses, etc. Most of these houses float on top of fish farms. Vietnam supplies the western world with a huge percentage of its fish. We stopped at one of the fish farms. They pulled up some squares of the floor handed me some fish food and told me to drop it in. Total mayhem broke out!! It was awesome! thousands of fish flopping and scrambling for their kibble. It was super cool and like a scene out of an old horror film.

Our last stop was at an ethnic cham village. They are moslem and the women wear head scarves. Both males and females wear sarongs, which the Vietnamese find charming. We visited a mosque where I saw the young children studying the Koran. It was a bit surreal or different to see the women in their head carvings with the traditional vietnamese cone hats on top of them.

I napped in the afternoon and enjoyed market food. Then, my moped driver (they call them motorcylces but...) picked me up and drove me to Sam Mountain to look at super cool buddhist temples. He then took me to the summit where we enjoyed a beverage and watched the sun go down over the rice paddies. Was super cool!

From Cambodia to Vietnam

Caught a noon express boat from Phnom Penh to the Vietnamese city of Chau Doc. It was a five hour journey. Watching life along the river was interesting. Houses built on stilts, people pooing off the sides of boats. I napped off and on. We had to get off the boat to go through customs on the Cambodian side, then do the same on the Vietnamese side. We arrived around 5pm at Chau Doc.

Chau Doc is a bustling town of 100,000 on the border with Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge did slaughter raids on a number of occasions during their reign of terror. I booked into a really nice hotel near the center of town... air conditioning, hot water and balcony for $10. I took a shower then wandered around. I found the market and side stepped garbage and stalls. I saw the most adorable Chihuahua puppy named Binh. She ran circles around me. My first Vietnamese love!

Then I headed back to the hotel restaurant for dinner. I had a queasy stomach, so ordered chicken soup. It was delicious! Went to bed early.

All things Fried and Beautiful

I spent the last few days in Phnom Pehn relaxing and wandering. I find fasciantion in the small things, like patterns on carvings, colors of fruits, intense smells of cooking. One thing I liked looking at were the fried bugs... hehe... spiders as big as my hand, grubs, cockroaches, grasshoppers. Yuck to me, but yum to most Cambodians! I am gearing up to eat some in Bangkok. I have to just for the experience.

Random things I love about Cambodia:

1. An Elephant walking down the middle of rush hour traffic at her own pace. No one complained. Everyone seemed delighted to see her.
2. The persistency of the Tuk-Tuk drivers. If I only I was as optimistic as them. Every time I or any other potential client walked by they called for business.
3. The drag show at Blue Chilli bar. It's Phnom Penh's only exclusive gay bar. The owners, Dor and Sakor, are super friendly and the staff a lot of fun. Got a lot of good tips on things to see and where to shop from them. Dor and one of the waiters DEE do an awesome drag show. I will upload some video when I get a chance
4. Watching monks go door to door, business to business asking for alms. They carry a metal pot in which to put the food that they receive from the lay people. It's how they support themselves.
5. The many shades of Orange and burnt red that the monks use for clothing, bags, umbrellas.
6. Monks everywhere - on the streets, in the internet cafes, etc. I don't know why, but their presence made me more calm
7. Photo booths at Sorya mall. I tried to buy the software. These are the ultimate kitsch and cheese. Wait until i get home and scan these photos!
8. Street food! Delicious, cheap and didn't make me sick!
9. The cafe's along the water front in Phnom Penh. A delicious way to watch the day start or end!
10. Watching people fish.

I have loved my time in Cambodia. It is definitly a country I would visit again!

Wandering in a Big CIty

I have spent the past few days wandering and exploring. It's lots of fun. No agenda. Hmmm..

Let's see. I went to the Vietnamese Embassy to get my Visa to Visit that country. The officials were nice but decided it would take 9 hours to process the visa. I got there 10 minutes before I was told it would be ready and the guy yelled at me and told me to wait. I just smiled. I sat next to a portugese girl who had been waiting for 2 hours. She was super sweet and we talked about how amazing the spa treatments were. She also told me about Morocco. Says it is amazing. That is one of my dream destinations. Finally got my Visa.

Between dropping off my passport and picking it up, I went to the Royal Palace. It is stunning, amazing, glittery mosaiced... decorated and gold. I loved it! The complex is huge and at least the part the public has access to is more of a museum today. The throne room was amazing. Baccarat crystal chandeliers, murals painted by a Frenchman at the turn of the century. Just stunning. There were also several very rare and important buddhas. There were several groups of Cambodian pilgrims worshipping. It was super cool. Unfortunately, disaster struck when i was using the timer on my camera to get a picture of myself in the splendor. The wind blew and knocked my camera over, breaking it. Ugh. I just bought it the day before I started travelling!

I am going to buy a new one, just want to find a decent place to get one.

Yesterday, I wandered the artists quarters and met some really nice painters. They are younger then me and do amazing work. Better then anything I could do. They took me out for a night on the town and was tons of fun.

I also visited the National Museum. It houses a fascinating collection of buddhist and hindu sculptures that span the centuries. I feel so inspired by the art I am seeing! Will be nice when I am settled in Salt Lake City and can dedicate myself to some mosaic and or stained glass!

Phnom Penh - Beautiful colonial city!

I flew from Siem Reap to the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh. The flight took 1 hour and was only 10 dollars more then the 6 hour bus ride. There were only four of us on the plane. We each had our own air hostess. Nice!

Shared a tuk-tuk into town with a physician from London. He is in Cambodia helping to set up a non profit organization. Really nice guy. About my age.

I am staying in the Happy Lotus Hotel. My room has views of the national museum and the royal palace. Stunning! It is more pricey at $16/ night then my others, but the location can not be beat!

I love Phnom Penh! It is a fantastic French Colonial city. The boulevards are wide, the architecture a nice Indochine mix. The food divine!!! I spent 6 hours wandering around the city on foot. Getting lost then finding exciting places. Got a facial that took two hours in an open air market for $2. Was a very nice breather.

Finished the day with a one hour massage...

things that i love today

1. Wide boulevards
2. Colonial Architecture
3. Street food - had some kick ass pork skewers and egg rolls for 50 cents.
4. lots of monks in bright robes
5. wandering around buddhist temple grounds.
   

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

It's impossible to find words to describe Angkor Wat. I feel completely inspired, awed, mesmerized. There are so many ruins, it was overwhelming. I took over 300 photos. I hired a Tuk Tuk and driver to take me around. A tuk tuk is basically a cart hooked up to a moped. It was much better and faster then attempting to do it on my own. I loved the hindu inspired carvings. I stood in awe in the patio of 1000 buddhas. I came face to face with the giant faces at the Bayon Temple. I walked through jungle covered temples at Ta Prohm. For about five minutes there I pretended I was Angelia Jolie (Tomb Raider was shot here). It was an amazing experience. I am not easily awed by ruins, but these get two thumbs up!

Things that made me smile today:

1. Little vendor girls that tried to sell me things. Conversation went like this: them " for your girl friend mister!" Me: "I don't have a girlfriend!" them"you know why? Because you no buy my ....."
2. Watching little blond british boys play with little black haired Cambodian kids. Language wasn't a barrier. They giggled and laughed and loved. If we could all be like that!
3. Parents that travel with their children. I am so thankful my parents weren't afraid to travel with all six of us!
4. t-shirts that have English sayings on them that make no sense... I am tempted to start a collection